![]() Helicon FB Tube automatically shifts the focus by one step with each shot thus producing a stack of images of unlimited length that can be rendered into a fully-focused image. Helicon FB Tube is an extension tube with integrated electronic microcontroller designed to enable automated focus bracketing in single or continuous shooting modes. Tethered photography makes focus stacking more accurate, reproducible, and higher quality than can be achieved with manual shots. Tethered photography for Canon and Nikon DSLR cameras: automates focus (DoF) bracketing, which allows precise and uniform steps, advanced exposure bracketing and time-lapse shooting-even all these combined if necessary. Then you can use Helicon Focus to blend all the sharp areas together and You can find more of his work on his website, Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.Focus stacking software: a post-processing technique that extends the depth of field in your photographs.To use this technique, you take several images of the same scene, focusing your lens on a different part of the object for each shot. ![]() This was the resulting image:Ībout the author: Cory Mottice is a photographer and meteorologist based in Flagstaff, Arizona. All of this could have been done in PS, but I am more comfortable with LR, so that was my method of attack. I then brought up the exposure a bit on Cathedral Rock (using the brush tool) and did used the dodge and burn technique on the Milky Way. ![]() When we detect it's in stock somewhere, we'll instantly send you a. We'll track the product for stock at various stores. Click the product's 'Alert me' button to tell us you're interested in it. ![]() I hardly used this, just moved it to (+5), but that was all that was needed. the second of the two basics videos covers the release timing indicator, customization of the shooting display, how to choose and determine the best live view mode for photo view, viewfinder. Browse for a hard-to-get product you're trying to buy, or use our iPhone app or Android app to search from a catalog of a thousand more products. I found that using the relatively new “dehaze” feature in LR over the Milky Way helped bring out some more detail. I also applied lens correction, which I probably should have done before anything else. I raised the clarity in the sky, increased the contrast, and bumped up the exposure just a touch. After I was done with this I threw the image into Adobe LR and edited the sky.Įverything I did to the sky, I also did to the reflection. This was my first time ever doing something like this, so it took me quite a while to get the water and reflection to look acceptable. Here is a look at a single image (of the ten) compared to the final output image (Before is top and after on bottom): It will also save the mask of the sky so you can quickly load that in PS. Once you’ve done that, just hit “Align and Save” and it will save the file as a 16-bit tif file (if that is what you uploaded). You can see some areas that aren’t shaded blue, so just use the brush tool on the left and add in areas that are sky and remove areas over land, if necessary. You then click “Find Sky” (top left), and let it do its work. I did this for both the sky and the reflection of the sky in the water. This is something they go over in the tutorial and it basically helps the program stack the stars better. You can see the additional line of red dots I added manually along the edges. It is just like using the brush tool in PS. You may notice some dots not in the sky, so for these you can just erase them using that feature (on the left hand side). It is pretty straightforward.Įach red dot is supposed to represent a star. They have a detailed instructional video on their website that teaches you how to use the program. I downloaded Starry Landscape Stacker for Mac ($19.99) and then loaded my ten 16-bit. Here is what one of the ten shots looked like straight-out-of-camera. I previously always used a 25 to 30 second exposure with a lower ISO, but even at 15mm the stars would still streak just enough to bug me. You can do a much higher ISO if you want and an even shorter exposure to get even more pinpoint stars. ![]() I took ten consecutive shots (around 5:45 AM local time) of the sky with a high ISO (5000) and shorter exposure (15 seconds), each at f/2.8. Shooting the Skyįor the sky, I tried a new technique that turned out really well. I was about even with the camera and then using trial and error I found the right speed to shine the light across the foreground to get the desired look. To “paint” the foreground, I stood about 30 feet to camera-right using a cheap headlamp from Wal-Mart. ![]()
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